Achieving the perfect shade of brown hair color requires more than just picking out the right dye. The volume developer you choose plays a crucial role in how the color deposits, how long it lasts, and the overall health of your hair. Selecting the wrong volume can lead to undesirable results, from color that washes out quickly to significant hair damage. This comprehensive guide will walk you through everything you need to know to make an informed decision.
Understanding Volume Developer
Volume developer, sometimes simply called developer, is a hydrogen peroxide-based product that activates hair dye. It works by opening the hair cuticle, allowing the dye molecules to penetrate the hair shaft. The volume number indicates the percentage of hydrogen peroxide present, which directly affects its lifting power. Higher volumes lift more and deposit less color, while lower volumes lift less and deposit more color. The volume determines how much the natural pigment of your hair will be lifted, allowing the artificial color to take its place.
The Role of Hydrogen Peroxide
Hydrogen peroxide is the key ingredient that facilitates the chemical process of hair coloring. It oxidizes the melanin in your hair (the pigment that gives it its natural color), essentially lightening it. Simultaneously, it opens the hair cuticle, allowing the dye molecules to enter and deposit color. Without hydrogen peroxide, hair dye wouldn’t be able to penetrate the hair shaft effectively, resulting in minimal to no color change.
Developer and Lift: A Crucial Relationship
The higher the volume of the developer, the more lifting power it possesses. This means a 40 volume developer will lighten your hair significantly more than a 10 volume developer. The amount of lift you need depends on your starting hair color and the desired shade of brown you want to achieve. If you’re going from a light blonde to a dark brown, you may not need any lift at all. However, if you’re starting with dark brown or black hair and want to achieve a lighter shade of brown, you’ll need a developer with enough lifting power.
Choosing the Right Volume for Brown Dye
Selecting the appropriate volume developer depends on several factors, including your natural hair color, your desired shade of brown, and the condition of your hair. Consider these points:
10 Volume Developer: Gentle Color Deposit
A 10 volume developer contains 3% hydrogen peroxide. It’s the gentlest option and is primarily used for depositing color or toning. It does not provide significant lift. This makes it ideal for:
- Going darker: If you’re dyeing your hair a brown shade that’s darker than your natural color.
- Adding a gloss or tone: To enhance existing brown tones or neutralize unwanted brassiness.
- Coloring hair that is already lightened: If you have bleached or highlighted hair and want to add brown tones.
- Delicate hair: For those with fine, damaged, or very porous hair, minimizing damage is crucial.
If you’re looking to simply enhance or deepen your existing brown color without lightening it, 10 volume is usually the best choice. It minimizes damage and provides a rich, lasting color.
20 Volume Developer: The Most Versatile Choice
A 20 volume developer contains 6% hydrogen peroxide. It provides a balance of lift and deposit, making it the most versatile option for many hair coloring situations. Use it when:
- Covering gray hair: It provides sufficient lift to open the cuticle and allow the dye to fully penetrate gray hairs.
- Going one to two shades lighter: If you want to lighten your natural hair color slightly while adding brown tones.
- Achieving a true-to-tone result: It lifts just enough to allow the brown dye to express its intended shade.
- Typical brown to brown color changes: Works well with most standard brown hair dyes.
20 volume is often the go-to for achieving a rich, vibrant brown that closely matches the color on the box. It’s a safe and effective choice for most hair types and situations.
30 Volume Developer: Significant Lightening
A 30 volume developer contains 9% hydrogen peroxide. It provides a significant amount of lift and is best used when:
- Going two to three shades lighter: If you want to lighten your hair color noticeably while adding brown tones.
- Coloring resistant hair: If your hair is naturally dark or doesn’t lift easily.
- Achieving lighter brown shades from a dark starting point: Such as going from dark brown to a medium golden brown.
Use caution when using 30 volume developer, as it can cause damage if not used correctly. It’s crucial to monitor the processing time closely to avoid over-processing and breakage.
40 Volume Developer: Maximum Lift (Use with Extreme Caution!)
A 40 volume developer contains 12% hydrogen peroxide. It provides the maximum amount of lift and is generally reserved for professional use or extreme color transformations. It should be used when:
- Going three or more shades lighter: For significant lightening before applying a brown tone.
- Lifting very dark hair: When attempting to achieve a lighter brown from a very dark starting point, but even then, this should be approached with caution.
40 volume developer can cause significant damage and breakage if not used properly. It’s crucial to have a thorough understanding of hair coloring principles and to closely monitor the processing time. For most at-home brown dye applications, 40 volume is generally not recommended.
Factors to Consider When Choosing a Developer Volume
Besides your desired shade of brown and your natural hair color, there are other factors to consider when selecting the right developer volume:
Hair Type and Condition
Fine, damaged, or chemically treated hair is more susceptible to damage from high-volume developers. If your hair falls into this category, opt for a lower volume (10 or 20) to minimize the risk of breakage and dryness. Thicker, healthier hair can generally tolerate higher volumes, but it’s still important to proceed with caution. Porosity also matters; highly porous hair absorbs color quickly but can also become damaged more easily.
Gray Hair Coverage
Gray hair is often resistant to color, as it lacks the natural pigment that helps the dye adhere. A 20 volume developer is typically recommended for covering gray hair, as it provides enough lift to open the cuticle and allow the dye to penetrate effectively. For stubborn gray hair, you may need to pre-soften the hair with a processing solution before applying the dye and developer mixture.
Previous Hair Treatments
If you’ve recently permed, relaxed, or bleached your hair, it’s more vulnerable to damage. Wait at least two weeks between chemical treatments and always perform a strand test before applying any new color. When coloring previously treated hair, use a lower volume developer to avoid further damage.
The Specific Dye Formula
Different hair dyes have different formulations and may require specific developer volumes. Always read the instructions that come with your hair dye carefully and follow the manufacturer’s recommendations. Some dyes are designed to work with a specific developer volume to achieve the intended result.
The Importance of a Strand Test
Before applying any hair dye and developer mixture to your entire head, it’s essential to perform a strand test. This will allow you to see how the color will look on your hair and assess any potential damage. To perform a strand test:
- Mix a small amount of the dye and developer according to the instructions.
- Apply the mixture to a small, inconspicuous section of your hair (such as underneath a layer).
- Wait the recommended processing time.
- Rinse and dry the strand.
- Evaluate the color and condition of the hair.
If the color is what you desired and your hair feels healthy, you can proceed with the full application. If the color is too light, you may need to use a higher volume developer. If the color is too dark or your hair feels damaged, you may need to use a lower volume developer or reduce the processing time.
Mixing and Applying Developer and Dye
Proper mixing and application techniques are crucial for achieving even and long-lasting color.
Mixing Ratios
The mixing ratio of dye to developer varies depending on the brand and type of dye. Always follow the instructions provided with your hair dye. A common ratio is 1:1 (equal parts dye and developer), but some dyes may require a different ratio. Use a non-metallic bowl and applicator brush to mix the dye and developer thoroughly until you achieve a smooth, creamy consistency.
Application Techniques
Apply the dye and developer mixture evenly to dry, unwashed hair. Start at the roots, as this is where the color needs the most time to process. Use the applicator brush to section the hair and apply the mixture to each section. Once the roots are covered, work the mixture through the lengths of your hair, ensuring that all strands are saturated.
Processing Time
The processing time also varies depending on the dye and your desired result. Follow the instructions provided with your hair dye. Generally, processing times range from 20 to 45 minutes. Check the color periodically during processing to ensure that it’s developing as desired. Don’t exceed the recommended processing time, as this can lead to damage.
Rinsing and Conditioning
Once the processing time is complete, rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water until the water runs clear. Apply a color-safe conditioner to help seal the cuticle and lock in the color. Leave the conditioner on for a few minutes before rinsing it out. Avoid shampooing your hair for at least 24-48 hours after coloring to allow the color to fully set.
Post-Color Care for Brown Hair
Proper aftercare is essential for maintaining the vibrancy and health of your newly colored brown hair.
Color-Safe Products
Use shampoo and conditioner specifically formulated for color-treated hair. These products are designed to be gentle and won’t strip the color from your hair. Avoid products that contain sulfates, as they can fade color quickly.
Limit Washing
Washing your hair too frequently can cause the color to fade. Try to wash your hair only two to three times per week. When you do wash your hair, use cool water, as hot water can open the cuticle and cause the color to bleed.
Heat Protection
Heat styling tools like hair dryers, straighteners, and curling irons can damage colored hair. Always use a heat protectant spray before using these tools to shield your hair from the heat.
Regular Deep Conditioning
Deep conditioning treatments can help to replenish moisture and repair damage caused by coloring. Use a deep conditioner once or twice a week to keep your hair healthy and hydrated.
Choosing the right volume developer for your brown dye is essential for achieving the perfect shade and maintaining the health of your hair. By understanding the different volumes and considering your hair type, condition, and desired result, you can make an informed decision and achieve beautiful, long-lasting brown hair. Always prioritize a strand test and follow the instructions provided with your hair dye to ensure the best possible outcome.
What does volume developer actually do?
The volume developer, also known as peroxide, is crucial for hair coloring. It opens the hair cuticle, allowing the dye to penetrate the hair shaft. This process facilitates the permanent alteration of the hair’s natural pigment by depositing the color molecules from the hair dye. Without a developer, the hair dye would simply sit on top of the hair and wash away, resulting in little to no color change.
The developer’s strength, measured in “volume,” determines the degree to which the cuticle opens and the amount of lift (lightening) achieved. Higher volumes lift more natural pigment, allowing for more dramatic color changes, but also cause more damage to the hair. Choosing the appropriate volume developer is essential for achieving the desired color result while minimizing harm to the hair’s structure.
What volume developer is generally recommended for brown hair dye?
For most brown hair dyes, especially when aiming for the same level or going darker, a 10 volume developer is typically recommended. This low volume developer deposits color without significantly lifting the natural hair pigment. It’s ideal for covering gray hairs, refreshing existing brown tones, or adding depth to the hair color without causing excessive damage.
However, if you’re aiming to lighten your hair by one or two shades while using a brown dye, a 20 volume developer might be necessary. This higher volume provides a slight lift, allowing the brown dye to be more visible and effectively change the hair color. Always consider your hair’s current condition and the desired outcome before choosing a developer volume higher than 10.
How do I choose the right volume developer if I have gray hair?
For covering gray hair with brown dye, you usually need a 20 volume developer. Gray hair tends to be more resistant to color absorption, and the 20 volume helps to open the hair cuticle sufficiently for the dye to penetrate and adhere effectively. This ensures better coverage and a more even distribution of color, resulting in a more natural-looking and longer-lasting color.
In some cases, particularly with stubborn grays, you might consider using a 30 volume developer. However, this should be done with caution, as it can cause more damage to the hair. It is crucial to conduct a strand test first to assess the impact on your hair’s health and color outcome. A protein filler may also be used before coloring to help the color adhere to the gray.
What is the difference between 10, 20, 30, and 40 volume developers?
The number associated with the volume developer indicates its hydrogen peroxide concentration and its ability to lighten hair. A 10 volume developer contains approximately 3% hydrogen peroxide and is primarily used for depositing color or subtly enhancing existing tones without significant lifting. It is the gentlest option and causes the least amount of damage to the hair.
A 20 volume developer contains about 6% hydrogen peroxide and provides one to two levels of lift. It’s frequently used for covering gray hair or achieving a slightly lighter shade. A 30 volume developer contains around 9% hydrogen peroxide and lifts two to three levels, while a 40 volume developer (12% hydrogen peroxide) lifts three to four levels and is typically used for more dramatic lightening effects. The higher the volume, the greater the potential for hair damage.
Can I use a higher volume developer to make the brown color more vibrant?
While using a higher volume developer might seem like a way to make brown hair dye more vibrant, it’s generally not the best approach. Higher volumes primarily lift the natural hair pigment, which can result in a different underlying tone than intended, potentially affecting the final brown color’s vibrancy. Instead of focusing on volume, consider using a brown dye specifically formulated for vibrancy.
If you’re determined to experiment, conduct a strand test first to observe the resulting color and assess any potential damage. Also, remember that vibrant colors often come from the dye formulation itself and not solely from the developer. Opting for a dye with richer pigments designed for long-lasting vibrancy will yield better results than simply increasing the developer volume.
What happens if I use too high a volume developer?
Using too high a volume developer can lead to several undesirable outcomes, primarily focused on hair damage. The higher concentration of hydrogen peroxide aggressively opens the hair cuticle, causing excessive dryness, brittleness, and breakage. Over time, this can weaken the hair structure, leading to split ends and making it difficult to manage.
Furthermore, using an overly strong developer can result in uneven color distribution, unwanted brassy tones, and a final color that is significantly lighter than intended. It’s crucial to remember that hair damage is often irreversible, and repairing heavily damaged hair can be a lengthy and expensive process. Always prioritize the health of your hair by selecting the appropriate developer volume.
How do I perform a strand test to determine the right volume developer?
Performing a strand test is crucial before applying any hair dye to your entire head. It allows you to preview the color result and assess the impact of the chosen developer volume on your hair’s health. Select a small, inconspicuous section of your hair, typically at the nape of the neck.
Mix a small amount of the hair dye and developer according to the product instructions. Apply the mixture to the chosen strand and allow it to process for the recommended time. Rinse and dry the strand, then carefully evaluate the color result and the condition of the hair. This test will give you valuable insights into whether the chosen developer volume is appropriate for achieving your desired brown shade without causing excessive damage.