Dyeing your hair can be an exciting way to transform your look. But sometimes, the results aren’t exactly what you envisioned. A common frustration is when your hair turns red after dyeing it, even if that wasn’t your goal. Understanding why this happens involves delving into hair color chemistry, your natural hair color, the dye you used, and the process itself. Let’s explore the reasons behind this unexpected color shift and what you can do about it.
The Underlying Pigments in Your Hair
Every strand of hair contains natural pigments called melanin. These pigments determine your natural hair color. There are two main types of melanin: eumelanin and pheomelanin. Eumelanin is responsible for brown and black tones, while pheomelanin creates red and yellow tones.
When you dye your hair, you’re essentially altering these natural pigments. The dye molecules penetrate the hair shaft and either deposit color or remove existing color to create the desired shade. How these pigments interact with the dye determines the final result.
The Role of Eumelanin
Eumelanin is more dominant in individuals with darker hair. The amount and type of eumelanin determine whether the hair is brown or black. Dyeing darker hair requires lightening or bleaching, a process that reduces eumelanin.
The Significance of Pheomelanin
Pheomelanin, responsible for red and yellow tones, is more resistant to bleaching than eumelanin. This means that when you lighten your hair, eumelanin tends to break down first, leaving the underlying red and yellow tones more prominent. This is a critical factor in why hair can turn red after dyeing. Even if your natural hair color isn’t obviously red, pheomelanin is likely present.
Understanding Hair Color Levels and Undertones
Hair color is categorized into levels, typically ranging from 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde). Each level has undertones, which are the underlying colors revealed during the lightening process.
Hair Color Levels Explained
Understanding these levels is important because it helps predict how your hair will react to dye. Darker hair (levels 1-5) will likely reveal red or orange undertones when lightened. Lighter hair (levels 6-10) is more prone to showing yellow undertones.
The Influence of Undertones
When you dye your hair, the dye interacts with these undertones. If you’re trying to achieve a cool-toned color like ash blonde on hair that naturally pulls warm (red/orange), the result might be a reddish or brassy hue. Color theory, which explores how colors interact, is crucial here.
The Dyeing Process and Chemical Reactions
The chemical reactions during the dyeing process are complex and involve several factors that can contribute to red tones.
The Impact of Bleach
Bleach is used to lighten hair before applying dye. It oxidizes the melanin pigments, breaking them down and making the hair lighter. However, as mentioned earlier, pheomelanin is more resistant to oxidation. This means that even after bleaching, some red and yellow tones might remain, especially if the bleaching process wasn’t sufficient to reach the desired level of lightness.
The strength of the bleach (volume of developer) and the duration of application are also crucial. Using a weaker bleach or not leaving it on long enough might not fully remove the red undertones, leading to a reddish result after dyeing.
The Role of Developer
Developer, usually hydrogen peroxide, is mixed with the dye to activate it. The developer’s volume (e.g., 10, 20, 30, or 40 volume) determines its lifting power. Higher volumes lift more color but also cause more damage.
Choosing the right developer volume is essential. If you’re trying to lift several levels, using a lower volume might not be enough to counteract the underlying red tones. Conversely, using too high a volume can damage your hair and still not guarantee the removal of red tones.
The Interaction of Dye Pigments
The dye itself contains various pigments that create the desired color. However, these pigments can interact differently with your natural hair color and undertones.
For example, if you’re using a box dye labeled “ash blonde,” it might contain blue and green pigments to neutralize warm tones. But if your hair has strong red undertones, these blue and green pigments might not be enough to completely counteract the red, resulting in a reddish or muddy color.
Factors Contributing to Red Tones
Several specific factors can increase the likelihood of your hair turning red after dyeing.
Insufficient Lightening
One of the most common reasons is not lightening the hair enough before applying the desired color. If you’re going from dark to light, you need to ensure that you’ve lifted your hair to the appropriate level to prevent the underlying red and orange tones from showing through.
Using the Wrong Toner
Toner is used to neutralize unwanted undertones after bleaching. If you use the wrong toner or don’t use it correctly, you might not effectively counteract the red tones. For example, using a toner designed for yellow undertones on hair with strong red undertones won’t produce the desired result.
Oxidation of Hair Dye
Hair dye can oxidize over time, especially if it’s not stored properly. Oxidized dye can produce unwanted tones, including red. Always check the expiration date of your dye and store it in a cool, dark place.
Mineral Buildup in Hair
Mineral buildup from hard water or certain hair products can also affect how dye adheres to your hair. Minerals can react with the dye, leading to unexpected color results, including reddish hues.
Damage to Hair
Damaged hair is more porous and absorbs dye unevenly. This can lead to patchy color and increased prominence of underlying red tones. If your hair is damaged, it’s essential to address its health before dyeing it.
How to Prevent and Correct Red Tones
Preventing and correcting red tones requires careful planning and execution. Here are some strategies:
Proper Lightening Techniques
Ensure you lighten your hair to the appropriate level before applying dye. This might require multiple bleaching sessions, especially if you’re going from very dark to very light. Consult a professional stylist for the best approach.
Using the Right Toner
Choose a toner specifically designed to neutralize red or orange tones. Toners with blue or green pigments are effective for this purpose. Follow the instructions carefully and monitor the toning process to avoid over-toning.
Choosing the Right Dye
Select a dye that is formulated to counteract warm tones. Look for dyes labeled “ash,” “cool,” or “neutral.” Read reviews and research the dye’s performance on similar hair colors.
Pre-Treating Your Hair
If you have mineral buildup, use a clarifying shampoo to remove it before dyeing. If your hair is damaged, use deep conditioning treatments to improve its health and porosity.
Professional Consultation
If you’re unsure about any part of the process, consult a professional stylist. They can assess your hair, recommend the best products, and ensure that the dyeing process is done correctly. A stylist can perform a strand test to see how your hair will react to the dye.
Color Correction Strategies
If your hair has already turned red, don’t panic. There are several color correction strategies you can try.
A color-depositing shampoo or conditioner with blue or green pigments can help neutralize red tones. Use these products regularly to maintain a cooler color.
A glaze or gloss can also help to tone down the red. These products deposit a sheer layer of color that can counteract unwanted tones.
In some cases, you might need to re-dye your hair with a different color. Consult a professional to determine the best approach. They might recommend using a color filler to even out the tone before applying the final color.
Home Remedies and Maintenance
While professional treatments often provide the best results, some home remedies and maintenance practices can help manage red tones.
Apple Cider Vinegar Rinse
An apple cider vinegar rinse can help balance the pH of your hair and remove mineral buildup. Mix equal parts of apple cider vinegar and water and use it as a final rinse after shampooing.
DIY Hair Masks
Hair masks with ingredients like honey, yogurt, and lemon juice can help brighten your hair and reduce red tones. However, be cautious with lemon juice, as it can be drying and may lighten your hair.
Sun Protection
Protect your hair from the sun, as UV rays can cause the dye to fade and reveal underlying red tones. Wear a hat or use hair products with UV protection.
Avoiding Heat Styling
Excessive heat styling can damage your hair and cause the dye to fade faster. Minimize heat styling and use heat protectant products when necessary.
Dyeing your hair is a chemical process that requires careful consideration. By understanding the underlying pigments in your hair, the dyeing process, and the factors that contribute to red tones, you can prevent and correct unwanted color results. Whether you choose to consult a professional or try DIY solutions, always prioritize the health and integrity of your hair. Remember, patience and careful planning are key to achieving your desired hair color.
Why did my hair turn red after dyeing it a brunette color?
Your hair turning red after attempting a brunette dye job is a common issue often stemming from underlying pigments in your hair reacting with the dye. Many brown hair dyes contain red or orange undertones to add warmth and dimension. If your natural hair already has a reddish or orange base, these undertones can be amplified, resulting in a noticeable red hue. Additionally, using a dye that’s too light for your starting hair color can also reveal these underlying warm tones.
Another contributing factor can be the presence of minerals in your water. Hard water, which contains high concentrations of minerals like iron and copper, can react with hair dye. These minerals can bind to the hair shaft and alter the color of the dye, often resulting in brassy or reddish tones. This is especially true if you frequently wash your hair and haven’t been using a clarifying shampoo or a shower filter to remove these minerals.
Could my hair porosity be the reason for the unexpected red hue?
Hair porosity, which is the hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture and color, plays a significant role in how hair dye processes. High porosity hair, characterized by open cuticles, tends to absorb dye quickly and intensely, but it also loses color quickly. This rapid absorption can cause certain pigments, particularly red, to become more pronounced while other pigments fade faster. Therefore, high porosity hair might grab onto the red pigments in a brown dye more aggressively, leading to a reddish result.
Conversely, low porosity hair, with tightly closed cuticles, can resist dye penetration. This can lead to uneven color absorption, potentially resulting in some areas absorbing the red undertones while others don’t. It might also require a longer processing time, which could inadvertently enhance the red pigments. Understanding your hair’s porosity is crucial for predicting and managing dye results effectively.
Does my previous hair dye color have an impact on the outcome?
Yes, absolutely. Any existing color in your hair, whether it’s from a previous dye job or a natural tint, can significantly impact the final result after applying a new color. The new dye will react with the existing pigments, creating a unique blend that may not be what you initially expected. Red, orange, and yellow tones are particularly stubborn and can be difficult to completely neutralize, leading to the new dye pulling warmer and potentially showing a red tint.
Furthermore, the number of times you’ve previously dyed your hair can also influence the outcome. Repeated dyeing can lead to color buildup, making it harder for the new color to deposit evenly and predictably. These layers of color can interact in unpredictable ways, often resulting in muddy or off-tone shades. In these cases, a color correction process or a gentle color remover might be necessary before attempting a new dye job.
What is the role of the hair dye brand or formula in the red result?
The specific brand and formula of hair dye you choose are crucial factors influencing the final color outcome. Different brands use varying combinations of pigments and have unique formulation processes. Some brands might have a higher concentration of red or orange pigments in their brown shades compared to others, which increases the likelihood of a reddish result, especially on hair that already has warm undertones.
Furthermore, the type of dye – permanent, semi-permanent, or demi-permanent – also plays a role. Permanent dyes contain ammonia and peroxide, which lift the hair’s cuticle and deposit color deep within the hair shaft. This can lead to a more intense and potentially less predictable color change. Demi-permanent dyes, on the other hand, deposit color on the surface of the hair and are less likely to dramatically alter the underlying pigments, making them a more forgiving option.
Could the developer volume be the culprit behind the unwanted red?
The developer volume, which is the hydrogen peroxide solution used in combination with hair dye, significantly affects the color result. Higher developer volumes (e.g., 30 or 40 volume) lift more pigment from the hair, allowing for greater color deposit. However, this increased lifting action can also expose underlying warm tones, particularly red and orange, which are naturally present in many hair types.
Using too high a developer volume can inadvertently pull out these warm tones, even when you’re aiming for a cooler or darker shade. Lower developer volumes (e.g., 10 or 20 volume) offer less lift and are better suited for depositing color without significantly altering the underlying pigments. Choosing the appropriate developer volume based on your hair’s natural color and the desired color change is crucial for avoiding unwanted red tones.
How can I prevent my hair from turning red when dyeing it brown in the future?
To prevent your hair from turning red when dyeing it brown in the future, start by assessing your natural hair color and its underlying tones. If you already have reddish or orange tones, choose a brown dye with cool or ash undertones to neutralize the warmth. Also consider using a color wheel to better understand which tones can cancel each other out and achieve a more balanced result.
Additionally, opt for a demi-permanent or semi-permanent dye if you’re only aiming for a subtle color change. These types of dyes deposit color without significantly lifting the existing pigment, reducing the risk of revealing underlying warm tones. Furthermore, use a low-volume developer (10 or 20 volume) to minimize the lifting action and ensure the color deposits without unwanted warmth. Consider doing a strand test before applying the dye to your entire head to preview the color result and make any necessary adjustments.
What can I do to fix my hair if it’s already turned red after dyeing it brown?
If your hair has already turned red after a brunette dye job, don’t panic; there are several options to correct the color. One common approach is to use a toner specifically designed to neutralize red or orange tones. These toners often contain blue or green pigments, which are complementary to red and orange, respectively, and can effectively counteract the unwanted warmth. Make sure to follow the product instructions carefully and perform a strand test first to avoid over-toning.
Another solution is to use a color-depositing shampoo or conditioner with blue or purple pigments. These products gradually deposit cool tones into the hair, helping to neutralize the red and brassiness over time. Alternatively, you could consult a professional hairstylist for a color correction service. A stylist can assess your hair’s current color and porosity and formulate a custom color to effectively neutralize the red tones and achieve your desired brunette shade. In some cases, a gentle color remover might be necessary before applying a new color.